Avocado and banana pancakes in the morning. For free.

Then I jumped in the waterfall and baptized myself to get in the Keys mindset. I air-dried in the little outdoor yoga studio.

I said goodbye to Brandon, who was one of the hostel transients. He had biked from Wilmington, NC to Key West. Barefoot. We had traded stories and it was amazing to hear how a trip that went basically the same route could be so different.

The sun began peeking back out, but the storm had brought some south winds that were pretty strong. I left at about 10, and the whole morning was brutal. The afternoon was going to continue to be straight in my face, but at least she was gonna back down to single digits.

It was a long, straight road. I finally hit a few bridges and I knew I was getting close.

The last section of about 18 miles is an expansive stretch of nothing but concrete. Concrete and crocodiles.

I had to hope and pray I didn’t pop a tube or run out of water. But the prayers worked and I made it to a gas station to replenish my empty water bottles. I had made it to Key Largo.

The place next door was selling “smoked fish dip,” and the cardboard box that advertised this kept blowing over. The manager/chef/waiter over there had a bad limp, and he came out twice to upright the box. I was enjoying a water and a cliff bar in between the two establishments, and after the second toppling of the box, I went over and fixed it for him. Then I found a rock and put it inside the box. He thanked me and gave me some smoked fish dip. I put it in my bag and prayed it wouldn’t squish open. That would be one thing that would wipe the smile off my face.

I found a Marina that had a little tent sign out front. Turns out the tent sign was for a different place, but the lady said I could set my tent up in the marina anyway.

I squeezed in, right next to the local pterodactyl:

I went and bought some crackers at Publix and enjoyed my fish dip. Pretty good! Then I made some ramen as the sun went down. I wasn’t aware of the “no-see-um” problem, especially on the water. I got SMOKED by those little gnats. “The midges are biting, they’re terribly frightening!” An old Scottish tune rang loud and clear in my head.

My tent was on gravel. Not the most comfortable thing, but I got inside early. Anything to get away from those little buggers.

I sacked up and did without the rain fly. I had almost forgotten it was Christmas time, but my nightlight from across the marina made me feel like I was in a Corona commercial.

There was no wind and it was so hot that the rain fly would have made it unbearable. I fell asleep watching the stars in Key Largo, Florida. 100 miles to go.